Sunday, February 19, 2012

Holy Guacamole!

I have successfully completed my first two weeks of WWOOF'ing, though it feels like longer. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, but time does move more slowly in the Souther Hemisphere. As mentioned, I spent one week on the avocado orchard and then was placed at the Eco Village- Rakanui in the same town. I spent most of my week there helping to paint a house on the ten acre property shared by five families. This assignment was a connection from my first woofer host, to her benefit, because by keeping me in town I could sell the avos. at market for them this week-end while they were on holiday. It really worked out for everyone and allowed me to diversify my WWOOF experience, while familiarizing myself with one small kiwi town. Mangawhai (the wh makes an "f" sound because it is Maori) is about and hour + north of Auckland and has seen an influx of kiwi and international residents seeking an "alternative" lifestsyle. Native Aucklanders and Europeans alike have come for the surf beaches, fertile (volcanic) soil and organic gardening. This has left a sour taste in some of the retirement folk around here who preferred their population of less than 1,000 for decades. In any case, with two Four Squares (groceries) and two pubs this bustling metropolis was a great first woof setting for me. It is mostly rural farm land leading up to stretches of estuaries and beaches on the East Coast.
       I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to get my hands dirty, immerse myself in kiwi farm culture, get to know the families and experience the "real" NZ, spray free. WWOOFing work can be very humbling, since I knew next to nothing about horticulture or bread making or composting. Basically any skills I have attained in my years of academia or professional life teaching, managing and international diplomacizing was pointless. However, I enjoyed the change of scenery and a good work ethic is helpful no matter what the task. However, where I grew up on 21 acres I helped paint a house at age 9 and could push a wheel barrow before I could see over it. Thanks for believing in child labor, eh dad?:) The other skills I felt I could bring to the table were love of animals, eagerness to learn, willingess to do mundane tasks and of course my affinity for sweating in the sun for love of food. And having the 2+ years of market experience under my belt enabled me to run two avo. markets over the week-end without a hitch. However, it was much easier than DC, given that I spent half the day chatting to bystanders about my crossword, barefoot and conversing with a 95 year old man about why he believes NZ is the best country in the world right now. 
For now, I have said goodbye to WWOOF and have embarked on a one week solo trip farther north for beaches and sun. More later!

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Avocados, Aguacate, Avos, Palta......

So many words for the same thing! That is my life right now. I spent the majority of time hunting avos. on the ten acres. But I also complete other handy tasks: feeding hens, collecting eggs, washing windows, mulching, painting. I can't believe I am almost done with my first WWOOF week. It has been a fabulous introduction into the organic lifestyles of this little farm, along with some hard work. My hosts are very cool, engaging people who are homeschooling little Ronan. A lot of the land reminds me of where I grew up (in Cleburne, TX), actually. Aside from many avos. for breakfast lunch and dinner, I have also eaten some amazing home cooked meals, made some homemade pizza dough and bread,  and spent some time at the beach. I am trying to get into reading now in my not-so-spare time. Currently, I am finishing Adding more~ing to your life: A hip girls guide to happiness & just started The Dirty Life ( a gift from my Meridian boss all about a city girl who moves out to an organic farm in NY.)
Today is my day off (kind of) so I am just checking in and then off to do a beach hike. Tomorrow, I am selling at the avo. stand at the market solo. Sunday Markets- I can do! Driving on the other side of the road, on the left side of the car- fingers crossed. This morning I sat and read the paper for the first time in weeks and drank a coffee (which I don't have on the farm) and had a cheese scone. Yum!  I can't be healthy every day of the week. I was at the local chocolate factory- Bennetts!
Many of you don't know that Bennett is my mother's maiden name, so I imagine we are probably related in some universe.
Next week I am off to an ECO-village in the area doing God knows what, but I will be amongst an intentional community. Don't worry- it's not a cult. It's more like a green sustainable village. The following week I am embarking on some solo travel farther north in the north land. All I know so far is beaches, hiking, sun and fun.
Until then----- Peace!

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Isolated coast lines & rugby stadiums...

I think the title of this post is  the perfect juxtaposition to describe my favorite things about New Zealand so far. On the one hand, there are so few people (just 4 million or so) that you don't have to go far to find yourself surrounded by earth and nature for miles.  On the other hand, kiwi people are not shy, subtle people. They tend to be gregarious, curious, adventurous and boy do they love their rugby!
J and I ventured into Abel Tasman National Park knowing we had just two days. Abel Tasman was the first man to reach New Zealand. This serene coastal beach park is at the northwestern tip of the South Island. We got our gear and took a water taxi to the top of the coastal track. We spent the rest of the afternoon and about 10 kms hiking our way down in low and high tide, taking in the view. We camped out and made the rest of our journey the next morning. We lunched on quiet sandy beaches. We swam in the cold Tasman Sea and I were in awe of it's clear blue/ green water. Paradise. We met up with a crew for a half day kayak led by a local. Team North America (J&I) had tired arms, but appreciated the opportunity to see the islands and get closer to the seals. The seal pups are so curious they practically jump into your kayak! The next morning we made the trek back to a ferry to cross into Wellington. I took a day to recover, relax and organize myself for my farming adventure while J got settled in her new classroom for her year 4s. School started this week for them. I can't say that I was sad to hang out, run, do laundry and cook, instead of work.
Then it was time for the SEVENS!!!! The Sevens are an international rugby tournament that take place in a number of cities, including Wellington. http://www.sevens.co.nz/. It is a huge party for all kiwis and an excuse to dress and celebrate as if it were halloween. I didn't feel like I was missing Mardi Gras at all this year, because of the characters. Of course we went as TEAM NORTH AMERICA- USA & Canada stickers included. Though we weren't as ludicrous or scantily dressed as some, we  were patriotic. J and I even got serenaded our own national anthems by some kiwis who knew all the words. New Zealand won! So it is no surprise the party spilled from the stadium, into the streets and carried on throughout the night. Most importantly- I got to see my first HAKA! -the Maori tribal dance preformed by the All Blacks before a game, made famous by their winning the Rugby World Cup here last year. I had a great time in Wellington, but had to leave Jeannette to her life there and carry on with my farming mission.
I will be off the radar for a few days, as I do not have internet in my cozy WWOOFer hut. I arrived yesterday after a long busride to Auckland on Sunday, which ended with some of the best Vietnamese Pho I have ever had.I now sit at an Internet cafe in Mangawhei in the Northland. I have met my first farming hosts and completed two days (or 8 hours) of work. The location exceeds my expectations. I am on an avocado farm! Seriously. They also have chickens and an all organic garden, with much up keep to do, so I will have my hands full. I have my own private hut that is probably larger than any room I have had. It has a little kitchenette, complete with outdoor shower and compostable toilet. I think you you would pay some hefty rent for this hut in DC! My hosts are a mixed kiwi/ irish family who have a 6 year old boy. They are organic vegetarians and an awesome introduction into this lifestyle. I already know I am going to learn a lot. I eat from the garden, bake my own bread and pick more avocadoes that you could ever want. Today I tackled a major feat in getting a chicken off her roost (without getting pecked) and getting seven eggs!!! What did you accomplish today?
I rewarded myself with a coffee when I came into town to go to the Post shop. I hitched a ride, which is pretty easy, safe and common here. As a result, I also have an invitation for fish dinner tomorrow night with two new lady friends who are fisherwomen in the area.  I can barely understand what has to be the thickest accent I have heard since arriving 3 weeks ago. Gotta love it.
Peace,
Olivia

Team North America takes on the South Island

As mentioned, Jeannette and I embarked on our adventure first stopping in Queenstown, the quintessential summer stop for tourists, adrenaline and partying! Due to my  lost wallet issue, I was on a strict budget that prevented me from capitalizing on one of my "Top 30 before I turn 30" goals: SKYDIVING! But alas, I have a few more months to make it happen here. After encountering some rowdy Irish folk in Queenstown, we headed off to Wanaka, a local lake resort town where allegedly some of the All Blacks (NZ rugby world champions) have recently purchased homes. It kind of has a SantaFe-esque vacation feel, but is still low key. We relaxed with ice cream, beach picnics and soaking in the sun next to the gorgeous lake with a mountain view and glacial water temperatures. We even took in a little paddle boating and Indian food. I think it was in Wanaka that I finally started to feel in full "holiday backpacker mode." We also worked on setting the pace and planning the remainder of our adventures. Fortunately, Jeannette had already taken care of the big planning items such as planes, trains and automobiles, but we then had to map out a route over more short whites of course.  With some reservations made and with a very lucky ride to make our bus, we decided to head directly to Mt. Cook, the highest point in New Zealand.  We were enthusiastic about this more isolated, serene setting. We checked into the visitor center for info. on renting gear and trail maps upon arrival.
We discovered we had that afternoon to complete the Mueller Trail we had picked out due to temperamental forecast for the next day. So we (foolishly) gathered ourselves and started out on a 5 hour hike that afternoon. About one hour in we realized that though short, the 1800 meter ascent was more than we bargained for. Jeannette and I are not novice hikers, but agreed that this was the most challenging thing that either of us had attempted since accomplishing Machu Picchu and Torres del Paine in South America. I cursed myself yet again for not having an ankle brace, but there was no turning back! Especially since our only booked accommodations for the evening were at the top of that point- at the Mueller Hut. So we trekked on, slowly, beyond rock scrambles and gale force winds to our destination. By the grace of God we managed to arrive about twenty minutes before sun down. Our sweaty, sun burnt, trembling legs now found themselves on snow in our path. Needless to say, our bodies ached as we climbed into our sleeping bag and were serenaded to sleep by 120kph wind noise in the hut we shared with 12 or so other trampers. We rose after the others and found ourselves to be the only humans on the trail the next morning as we descended- cursing every stair and unstable boulder. Survival!! We, of course, rewarded ourselves with pricey cafe food, coffee and chocolate at the end. We just missed the snow in Mt. Cook and Queenstown, unseasonable for this time of year. So I was fast asleep that night in my cozy YHA hostel by 7pm.  The next day, still sore and humbled by the trek, we boarded another InterCity bus to Christchurch. 

I wasn't sure what to expect from Christchurch, which was devastated by massive quakes in the last year. What used to be the largest city on the South Island is still in a state of healing and recovery. I could go on and on about the comparison of what seems to be highly productive NZ government rebuilding efforts vs. the efforts of say the US gov. disaster response circa 2005, but I will keep it light. J and I stayed at the Jailhouse Hostel, which is - you guessed it- an old historic jailhouse converted into a hostel. Clever buggers! We spent the first night people watching the locals at a pub over fish n' chips and a well earned beer or two. The following day I managed to track down my wallet finally. No thanks to the NZ courier post, it took over a week for me to recover it, but again keeping it light and not hateful. Anyway, we spent Saturday exploring the city, including the completely blocked off and abandoned CBD AKA the Red Zone. The buildings that are still standing are broken, tilting and abandoned.  However, a lift of morale and spending for the city has been created in the ever creative container mall. They have reopened shops and cafes from the area and built them in old train cargo containers. It is literally the world's first pop- up mall. Brilliant for the Re: Start Christchurch. I could go on an entire post about Christchurch rebuilding efforts, but you can also google it or click here http://www.flickr.com/photos/jjprojects/6336633624/ for images. My photos are posted on Facebook.  Additionally, there was a Buskers Festival going on that weekend so Jeannette and I sat  amidst the comedy on a nice summer's eve. The return of this world fest seemed to be a huge morale boost for the city as well. And wouldn't you know that the stars aligned for Jeannette and I as we found ourselves sitting right behind a group of local Christchurch girls about our age and some Chilenos- JACKPOT! Before we knew it we had finished our wine and were heading to The Brewery (local bar) with our new friends. We cracked some woodies (opened some Woodstock brand bourbon and coke in a can)-and carried on into the evening.  
The next morning came too soon. We had a lovely 7am ride to the train station to cross the Southern Alps going from the east coast to the west coast that day.  A very scenic ride indeed, that I slept through most of :). We finally arrived in Nelson that evening, tired, but eager to plan our escape into Abel Tasman National Park. 
More on that,  the Sevens Rugby Tournament and WWOOF'ing!

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Looking Left

Greetings,
I hope to write in greater detail later, but for now I  wanted to update that I am in Nelson, NZ and headed into Abel Tasman National Park.  I will update on Wanaka, Mt. Cook and Christchurch soon! For now, off the radar and into the sea (via kayak!)

Peace,
O

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Kiwi love

I am just popping in to say that I am in Queenstown and enjoying this beautiful mountain encompassed beach town. Jeannette and I have had a very full four days from Wellington to here. We visited Milford Sound via bus and boat and enjoyed some mince pies. Yesterdfay made for a 22 hour day after our travels, we joined some other hostelers out on the town last night. Today, we glady slept in and then decided to get from crip, fresh air by hiking up the Tiki Trail. Instead of spending $25 on the gondola ride we walked it instead, which reminded me of how much hiking I hope to do during my stint here. After enjoying the view of the Remarkables ( the mountain range) we enjoyed a short black (more coffee.) Tomorrow we are headed off to Wanka for more gorgeous scenery and then off to glacier climbing and by the end of the week, Christchurch. I will try to post pictures (on facebook) soon, but internet cost$ money. :)
In other news, I misplaced my wallet at the Wellington airport and it was recovered after 24 hours with EVERYTHING in tact! This astounds me, as I cannot imagine still having my credit cards and $200 cash  if this had happened in about a million other international airports around the world. First impressions: Kiwi people are amazing, kind, laid back and adventure lovers. So far so good!

The Layover

My long journey to New Zealand began with a little R&R near LA with my friend Rio and catching up with a few other friends in the area. I had a bit of a layover in Brisbane, Australia (~8 hours.) With this time and ~$50 I accomplished the following things for my day in Australia: tired of airports and planes, I took a bus to and from the city center. I began my day with my first short white (coffee in this part of the world.) It is very hot in Australia so I immediately went to the south bend area where there is a man made beach off of the Brisbane River. No bathing suit? No problem! I just went with what I had on (under my clothes.) Spontaneity embraced. After realizing I needed SPF do my laying out, I went for a walk about and found myself crossing the Goodwill Bridge to go to the free city Botanical Gardens. The new flora made for great experimenting with my camera. Then I completed the day with a delish. lamb gyro and inaugural travel ice cream at a beach side cafe! My general first impression of Australia was that it is hot and expensive. However, the city of Brisbane is beautiful, green and clean. They also claim fame for having the largest IMAX theater in the world and the first koala preservation. I also met a nice kiwi girl who had been studying abroad at UNC, proving that tarheels really are everywhere. All in all it was a great day and a great break. Lastly, Virgin Australia was an amazing airline, given the billion hour ride.
Next up.... arrival in Wellington and beyond.