WOOF WOOF!

After the departure of my sister, I returned to the dirty life. I had to rearrange some plans to spend more time traveling (woe is me), so I ended up at a fruit orchard in the Central Otago area in the South Island for a week. This was a very different experience from my other placements, but I am very glad to have the comparison. The area is known for producing delish NZ wine and fruit because of its cool and dry climate. I could tell from the start that this experience would be different, simply based on the email correspondence, or lack there of,  with the host. I imagine WWOOFing to be a lot like online dating. You create profiles complete with photos and interests, talk about yourself, seek people out and hope for a good outcome when you go to meet them. Funny thing is, in my case, you are going to be sharing your life with them for the allotted time commitment. The morning I arrived from Queenstown I was once again coming off of a “I’m a solo backpacker must go out and meet people night”, so I wasn’t exactly expecting to work an eight hour day. But I did. Dave, the farmer, picked me up from the bus stop, offered me a mince pie (NZ version of fast food) and put me to work at the fruit stand an hour away. It wasn’t so bad because when it comes to market vending- I can sell! I suppose I passed that test with him, because little did I know I would be left to wo-man the fruit stall for the duration of the markets that week. Unlike the hustle and bustle of selling cheese at the DC Dupont Farmers Market, this consists of setting up a small stand on the side of the road in front of the racetracks. I basically talked to old people about the apricot season, a variety of plums and my indiscernible accent. People often challenge my Texan roots because I don’t sound like Yosemite Sam or George Bush. In any case, I got to read my book between customers and sorting rotting fruit for most of the day. There were a number of other WWOOFers at the orchard. During the busy fruit-picking season, they can accommodate up to 40 WWOOFers. Yup- a regular WWOOFer factory!  I spent the week with a variety of folks from Mexico, Germany, Switzerland and Costa Rica. We were an eclectic group. I, myself with the most English language skills and number of years. I was totally in my element. The weekend started off lovely with a St. Patrick’s Day celebration at the farm where I made a festive dress from a green fitted sheet and found an appropriately swirly green straw. Then on Sunday- the day off- we butchered a pig. A farm first for me, but quite exciting. It was then smoked and burnt for the next few days. In my omnivore dilemma I have always maintained that if you want to eat the meat, you best be willing to slice and dice it! I am not saying it is always my preference, but if you wouldn’t take the life, than don’t sacrifice.  I did spend some time working at the orchard with the others sorting the end of this seasons crops. I also took on the task of cleaning the whole house. I know this may shock many of you, but it is so much easier for me to clean someone else’s stuff! Not to mention the state of this house, lived in by animals, smokers, bachelors and WWOOFers, needed my help. Inevitably, it was in a complete state of disarray within 24 hours, which reminded me why I don’t want to be a housewife. Anyway, the week was a mix of productivity, but there were some questionable “policies.” Firstly, we all worked beyond the half-day requirement, but no one complained. I wasn’t going to throw a fit what with the free meals and beer and wifi. Plus, my work wasn’t back breaking labor.  Secondly, there were not clear expectations or tasks set out for the WWOOFers. There were two other kiwis living/ working on the property, but the messages seemed to be mixed. Dave, the would-be boss, would flip a switch from casual fun guy to stressed out tantrums. He is the kind of leader that takes his stress out on the most vulnerable targets- young, female foreigners. GRRRRRRR! As it turns out business didn’t go so well with him this season. One girl was asked to leave without any reasoning or warning. The things that really got my former managerial head spinning was the lack of appreciation or positive reinforcement. I had to make an action plan list for myself as to how I would whip the place into shape in order (if it were me) in order to bite my tongue. There were some other added “personality” conflicts, but he never came head to head with me. On my last night when there was an opportunity for me to do so- in private- I expressed some of my concerns. I was met with more respect than I had anticipated and then went about my evening helping to cook and prepare a fiesta with the other WWOOFers. Fun was had, sunrises were seen and card games from various countries of origin were played. This kind of cultural exchange warms my deepest public diplomacy heart. It is immersion experiences like these that reiterate the importance of the work of Meridian International and programs like the one in Chile. But I will spare you my campaign for international education funding for now. 

The biggest accomplishment of my week: relearning how to drive a manual! Each day I drove the old fruit van, full of boxes, for hours on end, on the left side of the road, shifting with my left hand. I think that is a kiwi test of survival!

I left the farm and returned to Wellington, stopping in on Jeannette once again for a lovely weekend. Despite its wicked reputation the city weather has cooperated with my arrival and we have been able to enjoy brunches, theater, shows and outings in her home away from home.

 This little piggy goes to market....

 Batty is in fruit heaven!

WWOOFer vision

I also returned to my beloved Kindle and finished the novel Shantaram. A fantastic read and quite a feat! I have been enjoying other random reads- dabbling in some of the greats, classics and theological literature. Aside from the obvious evidence of what I have been up to in New Zealand, I think I have read more and slept more in three months than I have in three years. That might tell you a little bit about how different my NZ life – population 4 million- varies from my DC life, where the population of the Capitol Beltway is double that! Worlds apart... 

I only have  few more blog posts to transcribe and then it is back to the Northern Hemisphere for me….. WOOF. 

There is nothing dubious about the Doubtful Sound...

I was initially hesitant about going on another boat jaunt, simply because of the touristy implications, cost, and the fact that I had already embarked on a long day cruise with Jeannette to the Milford Sound when I first arrived. Well, I am glad to say that my sister’s insistence and generosity convinced me otherwise. After a bit of deliberation we decided on the overnight cruise in the Doubtful for a few reasons; though more expensive, time on the boat was longer, the one company that operates there guarantees solitude and no other boat traffic and the diversity of the new view was enough to encourage me.

We had no idea what we were getting into. After a delightful morning hike and delicious meal of pasta from the back of our van, we gathered with 100 or so other passengers with gear for a small boat headed across the Lake in Manapouri to reach our bus. This is the only way in or out of the Sound. After our small ferry to our bus, we were routed to the dock of our Fiordland cruise boat. We had been automatically upgraded to a private double- thank you kiwi hospitality! We were elated with the accommodations and free shower, after living in our van for a week. Batty, my wayward companion was also very excited by the seemingly posh pad.  Batty is the small stuffed fruit bat that you see in many photos through my travels. More on him later.

The crowd was slightly different than the typical throngs of backpackers we had been encountering, in that they were slightly older and many were couples. After all, this wasn’t exactly a backpacker budget adventure. Andrea and I feared we would be the youngest on the boat, but soon encountered a few Europeans, Israelis and yes.. Americans.  I am happy to report that I haven’t met that many Americans during my travels. I prefer to be the solo cultural ambassador, perpetuating or disproving stereotypes as I please.   Though I have encountered a few posing as locals, working for accommodation in hostels and other tourist spots. Much to my chagrin the lot of them have been tolerable, even pleasant. The Americans on our cruise were working in Christchurch as engineers for the earthquake relief. This was their first real vacation after many months working hard. They were from Texas, of course.

Anyway, Andrea and I did some brief exploration and sun soaking until we anchored. We hopped in our kayaks with others and explored the surrounding area. I really can’t express what it was like to be dolphin searching, bird listening and toe splashing commandeering your own kayak in the water. Once we arrived back on board, there was an announcement before dinner. We had the opportunity to jump in the frigid sound. Without a word, Andrea and I looked at each other and sprung to our feet to determine our best bathing suit substitutes. In the end there were only a few people who decided to jump off the dive spot from our boat into the water. We were all from Texas. The water was a temperature rivaling the Titanic ( in my mind), but totally worth it! 

The rest of the evening continued in glory, with seal spotting, a breathtaking sunset and possibly the best dinner we had in our travels. Unlike typical, touristy cruise ventures there was a renowned chef preparing our kiwi dinner. And much to my gluten intolerant, vegetarian sister’s delight the meal was amazing. She was catered to and we helped ourselves to many plates of mussels, salmon, kumara, desserts etc. In celebration we split a bottle of wine and reveled in the glory that is true holiday. I spent the remainder of the evening star gazing into the Southern Hemisphere sky with a glass of wine in hand.

The captain starting churning the engine at 6:30 am which woke most passengers, except for me, of course. I did, however, rise to the occasion when he summoned us on the loud speakers for the sunrise. This sunrise was epic. Photos and words cannot do it justice. It was the kind of sunrise symphonies are made of and artists dream for.  It was the kind of sunrise that makes you a believer. Whatever faith or system- it was the kind of sunrise that makes you grateful to whatever you call God, Allah or Mother Nature. The purple pink of the night behind the mountains quickly rose to softer pinks, yellows then a bright blazing orange reflected perfectly in the still water. It is moments like this that make me thankful I have opportunities to explore. The freedom to stop and reflect.  The eyes to see and the ears to listen. The time to wonder in awe. Gratitude.

Rainbows, Waterfalls and Mountains- Oh My!

One of our goals during our travel venture was to complete one of New Zealand’s GREAT WALKS. The Routeburn Track is a world-renowned tramping (hiking) 32km track found in the South Island. The track is usually completed by starting on the Queenstown side of the Southern Alps, at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu, and finishing on the Te Anau side, at the Divide.

The New Zealand Department of Conservation classifies this track as a Great Walk and maintains four huts along the track. The track overlaps two National Parks; the Mount Aspiring National Park and Fiordland National Parks with the border being Harris Saddle. The track spends a long time on the high ridges around Harris Saddle, with great long-distance views in many directions. This would elicit envy from even the most casual of Lord of the Rings fans. New Zealand conservationists  and citizens alike are very serious about their beautiful bush walks and limit the number of people allowed on the trail at any given time. Again, the stars were aligned for us on this part of our travel. We enjoyed spectacular views, encountered good people and weathered some stripe-earning storms. After a long transfer to the trailhead from Queenstown we set out on the first day in pouring rain; relentless, unwavering New Zealand rain. It rained to the point that even my most waterproof apparel was no longer so. Fortunately we were prepared (enough) and it was not frigid so we still made it to our first hut with time to spare. Much to our relief, we had decided to spring for the indoor, shared, bunkroom accommodations provided by the NZ Department of Conversation, for a generous fee. With this we had access to stoves, fire, beds and shelter. I cannot tell you how much we were saved by not packing in a tent, oven etc. We often considered how our travel would have been if our brother, J.B., had been able to get time off work to make the trip. We decided he would have been quite handy with the tire incidents, bug swatting, map navigating and other Boy Scout necessities. However, he may have protested to the Hut accommodations over tent camping initially and this is where I can say Boo to boys! We were able to spend plenty of time indoors recovering, photo shooting and of course playing cards. As different as we may be, (and we are) all Cosbys play cards. It’s one of those DAD life requirements, much like jumping off the roof or not getting training wheels. I digress. Anyway,  we played so many cards that we actually started making a list of “dadisms” or colloquial, old school, dad phrases. If you know me, than you know there is a long list to be imitated. We also enjoyed the company of some other trekkers in our card games as well as evening fireside chats with the DOC warden. And again, being Cosbys, we talked…. and talked. We discussed life- past, present, future and over analyzed all relationships.  Throughout our hikes, however, we marveled at rainbows,  stared at mountaintops,  ascended rock points and descended into beach tree rainforest cover. We leaned over and under waterfalls; all that with permanently wet socks, smelly shoes and often-sweaty packs. And following in character and expectation of the baby sister, I trailed behind and slept in, only to be awoken and guided by the wiser and slightly more energetic older sister. 

Cosby Kid Adventures Come to an End

 Warming up for the Routeburn Track

 A delightful view in the Abel Tasman

 

Adrenalin surges before we plummet from 12,000 feet in Taupo!
~~~~~~~~~~~~
I thought I should post this journal entry, though so delayed, as an ode to my sister, Andrea; without whom I would never have experienced some of the coolest highlights of my New Zealand adventure. Not only was my older sister more energetic and organized than I, she also enabled me to a world beyond the world of WWOOFer/ backpacker. This is a travel world I have not known...... since childhood. I owe her much gratitude for helping fund major travel highlights, flying across the world to join me for three weeks and for not letting me jump out of a plane....alone. Many of you have already heard some of these stories or seen evidence on the ever extensive facebook album, but I will share my account of what it is like to travel with your sister extensively for the first time in over 20 years. :)
I met Andrea in Auckland on the morning of her arrival. She was jet lagged and I was, well, some kind of lagged, as I had spent the previous day sampling wine and seafood delights at the Keri Keri Food and Wine Festival! Despite my state, I made my 7:30am bus and met her at our hostel. Andrea had the keen ability to look as if we needed an upgrade (to a private room) in locations, so most places upgraded we sisters for free! We didn't explore Auckland aside from Indian food and cafes. Though in my previous experience I had deemed it not worthy of tons of urban discovery. So we set off on our bus South the next day. Our first few days were spent and spend happy tourists. We went to a Hangi (traditional Maori earth oven meal) and performance our first night in Rotorura and also sprung for the geothermal tour, which was cool, but nothing compared to the scenery we would be taking in, as I assured her. From there we traveled only slightly South to Taupo. This center of the North Island offers some good views and the largest lake in New Zealand, which really isn't very grand. However, when you jump out of a plane on a clear day- that lake appears awfully vast, massive and death defying!
The decision to skydive was mine, only made possible by Andrea. Skydiving has been a goal of mine and was on the top of my Top 30 Before I  

Turn 30 List- as was coming to New Zealand in the first place! 

In any case, the decision was made on a whim 24 hours prior. Contrary to my usual inquisition, I didn't ask for the worst-case scenario stories until after we survived. While we suited up and vaguely watched an instructional video, I think I lost touch with what I was about to do. Andrea was elected to jump out of the plane first. She will blame me for convincing her to do this, but truth be told, I never expected she would want to come with me.  I offered her multiple outs, but big sisters don't like to be shown up by their cooler, younger counterparts;) In any case, Andrea in all her shakiness lept from the plane first on leap year- with a much cuter tandem instructor than I. I, on the other hand, was about the sixth person to leap from our tiny prop plane and didn't get petrified until the door was open and I was asked to simply hang my legs over the side of the plane while my instructor held us against the exit with his foot. Naturally, I rambled the entire ascent to 12,000 feet and was likely the only person in the plane making small talk. However, when I held out my hand it wasn’t even unsteady. There is something oddly calming about putting your life in a strangers hands. One of the last thoughts I had before jumping was, I can’t believe my grandfather did this in WWII on D-Day with a medic bag. Buck up! All went according to plan except that the 40-second free fall felt like 900 minutes to me before the chute opened. All I said was expletive#*$& expletive the whole way down, but had my eyes open enough to enjoy it! You are supposed to keep your head back and your legs tucked (imagine your body as a backwards banana on another person), but I failed in that regard because I flailed my legs. As if I expected them to find gravity to stabilize myself in mid-air. I flailed until the chute opened and we were traveling vertically as opposed to horizontally through clouds. The experience is indescribable. There is a feeling of immortality, fierce fearlessness and insanity that combines to create a major surge of “I can do anything” endorphins afterwards. So in true Cosby fashion we celebrated with a delicious meal before catching out bus later that afternoon!

We arrived in Wellington a la casa Jeannette and enjoyed the free access to Internet, laundry and planning time. Jeannette’s house that she shares with her flat mate outside of Welly has been my home away from home and base for me in New Zealand. It has been glorious to be able to leave a finished book or unwanted clothing and have my own room in NZ! Andrea and I spent a long day sorting out our plans for the rest of the trip. This involved planes, buses, rentals, reservations, cancellations etc. She was the brains, or the financier, and I was the brawn, or the spokesperson/ negotiator, in this business we call travel. In the end, there were limited hiccups and we pulled off the rest of our co-travel with only minor hitches. But what is travel without a rainy day, an almost busted tire and a parking ticket to make you appreciate it all? Or in our case, help you justify retail therapy and ice cream!

          We left Wellington to pick up our rental van in Christchurch. Then, we hightailed it in our purple and green home to Nelson where we would enter the Abel Tasman National Park. After a day and a half of hiking and kayaking on the breathtaking coastal track we made our way down the west coast of the South Island, stopping for the phenomenal views. The roads were windy and slick. Often, you can go hours without seeing another car. This can be a pretty handy thing while you acclimate to driving on the left side of the car on the left side of the road into one-lane bridges that decorate New Zealand highways.

We slept next to moonlit beaches, we found organic cafes with gluten free delights and we won’t discuss the sand flies that haunted us throughout.

When we got to the Franz Josef Glacier we discovered a touristy town ready with cyclists, mountaineers, ice heli-hikers and beyond. Andrea and I took the less intense route of “run to the glacier in the pouring rain long enough to enjoy the view and snap the photos.”  We also took in the kiwi exhibit and enjoyed overpaying to see the nocturnal, endangered, pre-historic wonder that symbolizes New Zealand. 

Beyond the glacier, we found dry solace in a cute little resort town called Wanaka. It provides a beautiful lake view and some tiny vineyard tracks. In the winter this turns into a ski destination for the kiwi elite. Again, we sorted ourselves out with cafes, Internet and planning for the remainder of the trip. All the while we are sleeping and carrying all of our worldly possessions in our blessed camper van, which really wasn’t that uncomfortable to sleep in! It came equipped with a stove and mini-fridge.

From Wanaka we traveled to the tiny town of Manapouri, which was the only location we encountered some issues with “freedom camping” and ended up parked outside a residential culdesac /park. All went well as we departed early to meet our small cruise boat for an overnight adventure in the Doubtful Sound. But that adventure, is a story all it’s own! 

Andrea Excerpt PART II

From her mouth (typing) to your ears (eyes)....
"Our adventure in Abel Tasman Park was amazing.  We hiked along a coast trail with views of turquoise water and snowy mountains.  Getting to the hut just at dark, we slept in a giant bunk bed with strangers.   The next day we had a short trek to a lovely beach where we swam shivering a bit and then kayaked back to town in time to have a yummy meal of burger/veggie burgers with farm-fresh toppings. (Olivia gives this the BEST Burger in NZ rating!)  Then we drove down the west coast.  We have a lovely purple and green eye soar of a Juicy van. This minivan converted to campervan includes space and pull outs for eating, sleeping, cooking, DVD watching and a mini-cooler fridge. Brilliant.
Anyway, we had planned to drive into town but I had to pee, so we pulled off at a rest stop..  It ended up being a beach (nature reserve) where penguins have been spotted.  We decided to camp there for the night.  We didn't see any critters but the moon was shining on the incoming tide and it looked like mercury.  We sat in our camp chairs and drank wine.  To balance it out, we woke up being eaten by mosquitoes and sand flies and had to make a quick get away. 

We are headed south along the coast to check out the glaciers.  Olivia is such fun company (yay me) and in a crazy moment where some bees were after her lunch, she threw the meat stick she was eating across the beach.  It almost hit me in the head which would have been the perfect veggie moment."
More later.... 

An Excerpt from Cosby Kid Adventures PART I

I haven't had time to write with all the adventure seeking lately, but here is an update written by my wiser, older sister. This is how Andrea describes part of our first 48 hours together.This was almost three weeks ago when our adventures began. I wouldn't want to spoil the updates to come, but they do involve jumping out of planes, sleeping in a mini van, exploring by sea and of course the DREADED sand flies! More on that later.... off to celebrate my last night with my sister in lovely Queenstown. She has made so many things that backpackers like me can only dream of in NZ- a reality.
So here is a glimpse, from PortlanDrea herself, with my commentary of course.

"At one point, I was really hungry from rushing all day to the geysers, back to one town, grabbing our stuff, throwing my forgotten key at the hostel-dude, and jumping on a bus, I started fantasizing about nachos.  So we get into town and the most amazing looking hippie restaurant emerges like a mirage in the distance with "gluten-free" and "no meat nachos" beckoning me from afar. (read dietary restrictions of travel fun!) I have my big pack on my back, my day pack in front and assorted groceries/hat/wallet-purse dangling.  In my excitement, I turn to shout to Olivia about the nachos and I don't notice the step up.  I stumble and catch myself on the door knob making all sorts of racket and coming close to going through the glass door. (I am not the only clumsy Cosby.... it turns out.) Olivia and I are cackling and crying from laughing (in only that way we Cosbys can do so loudly) so when we enter my audience just says that they knew I was OK because we were laughing so hard.  Their food was fantastic and we ate their twice in our 24 hours in that town- GF buckwheat pancakes with blueberries and cream- yum!

On a similar note, after a 6 hours in a bus, Olivia all of the sudden says urgently, "we have to get off now" and we are barefoot with stuff everywhere.  A little girl helps Olivia find her shoe while I'm grabbing and stuffing.  She hadn't figured out that we could cut some time to her friend's until she saw the town.  The bus driver grumbled but we made it.  Then we borrowed a shopping cart that had been on the side of the road to push our packs when we got some groceries.  I think we might be famous already.  

To backtrack, after Auckland, we went to Rotorua which is known for it's sulphur smell which I kinda like.  Olivia says it smells like a fart of someone who has eaten lots of hard-boiled eggs.  She's not so much of a fan.  Anyway, we tried to do a walk there but our directions were bad so ended up getting lots of rides/directions from the insanely nice Kiwis.  That day ended with a 4 hour Maori ceremony (well, you know, the tourist version) and feast.  Yes it was touristy, but the food was interesting and good (it had been steamed in a pit in the ground) and the "actors" seemed authentically into it.  

The next rushed morning was our geyser day.  Also touristy (read expensive) but the colors of the water (lime!), the billowing steam, bubbling mud, and general landscape was really beautiful.  Then we jumped on the bus to Taupo where it poured during our evening but turned it around for our adrenaline adventure."


Peace and love to all!

You Might be an NZed WOOFER if....

• ............
• you are barefoot 50% of the day
• you eat the fruits of your labor- literally
• your everyday vocabulary includes words like "permaculture, horticulture, organic, spray free, harvest and mulch."
• your finger nails are dirty to a point that your mother would deem unacceptable
• you see both the sunrise and sunset in the same day (by choice)
• you haven't worn makeup in two weeks
• you've been pecked by a chook! (hen)
• rain actually means you have to change your work plan that day
• you've cleaned more dishes than at any point in your life time (shocking to my former roommates)
• you have more than 20 bug bites at any given time
• you find mosquito nets endearing
• taking a break means going for a swim in the ocean
• you haven't met a spider web you couldn't conquer
• when nature calls, you can really only go in nature
• you understand the use of a compost toilet
• your hands often smell like work gloves
• you have a farmers tan
• you are lulled to sleep by the Morepork (native NZ owl)
• you have attained new skills in painting, sanding, gardening, weeding, cleaning, fruit picking that makes you realize you are not as smart as you thought you were
• you have driven in a Ute (small truck) 
• you've been awakened by a possum
• you play with kids during your down time
• you discover the only way into THE town is to hitch
• you have discovered fifteen different ways to use avocados (list coming soon..)
• you've discussed American politics, food, family and economy over home brewed beer with your hosts
• you have consumed local foods like kiwifruit, plum chutney, whitebait, kumara and feijoa
• after a hard days work (a whopping required four hours) you indulge in amazing hospitality over delightful meals that have been prepared from the garden- SEED TO TABLE! 

 In other news, I have so much to report on the last two weeks of solo travel and meeting up with my sister, who as safely arrived from Oregon for a three week adventure. However, I am feeling back-blogged, so I wanted to share this list as I am about to post photos that will better depict the aforementioned and give you an idea of my first two weeks of WWOOF experience in the Northland of NZed (the British way of saying EN-ZEE.) And to the disappointment of my LSU Communications professors I have not been editing, spell checking or attempting any journalistic content on my previous blogs. Perhaps that's the goal for the next half of my tale telling! Please excuse the rambles and enjoy my Olivia-esque train of thought. I can't believe I am already half way through my time here and have only five weeks left!
Abrazos a todos!

Holy Guacamole!

I have successfully completed my first two weeks of WWOOF'ing, though it feels like longer. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, but time does move more slowly in the Souther Hemisphere. As mentioned, I spent one week on the avocado orchard and then was placed at the Eco Village- Rakanui in the same town. I spent most of my week there helping to paint a house on the ten acre property shared by five families. This assignment was a connection from my first woofer host, to her benefit, because by keeping me in town I could sell the avos. at market for them this week-end while they were on holiday. It really worked out for everyone and allowed me to diversify my WWOOF experience, while familiarizing myself with one small kiwi town. Mangawhai (the wh makes an "f" sound because it is Maori) is about and hour + north of Auckland and has seen an influx of kiwi and international residents seeking an "alternative" lifestsyle. Native Aucklanders and Europeans alike have come for the surf beaches, fertile (volcanic) soil and organic gardening. This has left a sour taste in some of the retirement folk around here who preferred their population of less than 1,000 for decades. In any case, with two Four Squares (groceries) and two pubs this bustling metropolis was a great first woof setting for me. It is mostly rural farm land leading up to stretches of estuaries and beaches on the East Coast.
       I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to get my hands dirty, immerse myself in kiwi farm culture, get to know the families and experience the "real" NZ, spray free. WWOOFing work can be very humbling, since I knew next to nothing about horticulture or bread making or composting. Basically any skills I have attained in my years of academia or professional life teaching, managing and international diplomacizing was pointless. However, I enjoyed the change of scenery and a good work ethic is helpful no matter what the task. However, where I grew up on 21 acres I helped paint a house at age 9 and could push a wheel barrow before I could see over it. Thanks for believing in child labor, eh dad?:) The other skills I felt I could bring to the table were love of animals, eagerness to learn, willingess to do mundane tasks and of course my affinity for sweating in the sun for love of food. And having the 2+ years of market experience under my belt enabled me to run two avo. markets over the week-end without a hitch. However, it was much easier than DC, given that I spent half the day chatting to bystanders about my crossword, barefoot and conversing with a 95 year old man about why he believes NZ is the best country in the world right now. 
For now, I have said goodbye to WWOOF and have embarked on a one week solo trip farther north for beaches and sun. More later!

Avocados, Aguacate, Avos, Palta......

So many words for the same thing! That is my life right now. I spent the majority of time hunting avos. on the ten acres. But I also complete other handy tasks: feeding hens, collecting eggs, washing windows, mulching, painting. I can't believe I am almost done with my first WWOOF week. It has been a fabulous introduction into the organic lifestyles of this little farm, along with some hard work. My hosts are very cool, engaging people who are homeschooling little Ronan. A lot of the land reminds me of where I grew up (in Cleburne, TX), actually. Aside from many avos. for breakfast lunch and dinner, I have also eaten some amazing home cooked meals, made some homemade pizza dough and bread,  and spent some time at the beach. I am trying to get into reading now in my not-so-spare time. Currently, I am finishing Adding more~ing to your life: A hip girls guide to happiness & just started The Dirty Life ( a gift from my Meridian boss all about a city girl who moves out to an organic farm in NY.)
Today is my day off (kind of) so I am just checking in and then off to do a beach hike. Tomorrow, I am selling at the avo. stand at the market solo. Sunday Markets- I can do! Driving on the other side of the road, on the left side of the car- fingers crossed. This morning I sat and read the paper for the first time in weeks and drank a coffee (which I don't have on the farm) and had a cheese scone. Yum!  I can't be healthy every day of the week. I was at the local chocolate factory- Bennetts!
Many of you don't know that Bennett is my mother's maiden name, so I imagine we are probably related in some universe.
Next week I am off to an ECO-village in the area doing God knows what, but I will be amongst an intentional community. Don't worry- it's not a cult. It's more like a green sustainable village. The following week I am embarking on some solo travel farther north in the north land. All I know so far is beaches, hiking, sun and fun.
Until then----- Peace!

Isolated coast lines & rugby stadiums...

I think the title of this post is  the perfect juxtaposition to describe my favorite things about New Zealand so far. On the one hand, there are so few people (just 4 million or so) that you don't have to go far to find yourself surrounded by earth and nature for miles.  On the other hand, kiwi people are not shy, subtle people. They tend to be gregarious, curious, adventurous and boy do they love their rugby!
J and I ventured into Abel Tasman National Park knowing we had just two days. Abel Tasman was the first man to reach New Zealand. This serene coastal beach park is at the northwestern tip of the South Island. We got our gear and took a water taxi to the top of the coastal track. We spent the rest of the afternoon and about 10 kms hiking our way down in low and high tide, taking in the view. We camped out and made the rest of our journey the next morning. We lunched on quiet sandy beaches. We swam in the cold Tasman Sea and I were in awe of it's clear blue/ green water. Paradise. We met up with a crew for a half day kayak led by a local. Team North America (J&I) had tired arms, but appreciated the opportunity to see the islands and get closer to the seals. The seal pups are so curious they practically jump into your kayak! The next morning we made the trek back to a ferry to cross into Wellington. I took a day to recover, relax and organize myself for my farming adventure while J got settled in her new classroom for her year 4s. School started this week for them. I can't say that I was sad to hang out, run, do laundry and cook, instead of work.
Then it was time for the SEVENS!!!! The Sevens are an international rugby tournament that take place in a number of cities, including Wellington. http://www.sevens.co.nz/. It is a huge party for all kiwis and an excuse to dress and celebrate as if it were halloween. I didn't feel like I was missing Mardi Gras at all this year, because of the characters. Of course we went as TEAM NORTH AMERICA- USA & Canada stickers included. Though we weren't as ludicrous or scantily dressed as some, we  were patriotic. J and I even got serenaded our own national anthems by some kiwis who knew all the words. New Zealand won! So it is no surprise the party spilled from the stadium, into the streets and carried on throughout the night. Most importantly- I got to see my first HAKA! -the Maori tribal dance preformed by the All Blacks before a game, made famous by their winning the Rugby World Cup here last year. I had a great time in Wellington, but had to leave Jeannette to her life there and carry on with my farming mission.
I will be off the radar for a few days, as I do not have internet in my cozy WWOOFer hut. I arrived yesterday after a long busride to Auckland on Sunday, which ended with some of the best Vietnamese Pho I have ever had.I now sit at an Internet cafe in Mangawhei in the Northland. I have met my first farming hosts and completed two days (or 8 hours) of work. The location exceeds my expectations. I am on an avocado farm! Seriously. They also have chickens and an all organic garden, with much up keep to do, so I will have my hands full. I have my own private hut that is probably larger than any room I have had. It has a little kitchenette, complete with outdoor shower and compostable toilet. I think you you would pay some hefty rent for this hut in DC! My hosts are a mixed kiwi/ irish family who have a 6 year old boy. They are organic vegetarians and an awesome introduction into this lifestyle. I already know I am going to learn a lot. I eat from the garden, bake my own bread and pick more avocadoes that you could ever want. Today I tackled a major feat in getting a chicken off her roost (without getting pecked) and getting seven eggs!!! What did you accomplish today?
I rewarded myself with a coffee when I came into town to go to the Post shop. I hitched a ride, which is pretty easy, safe and common here. As a result, I also have an invitation for fish dinner tomorrow night with two new lady friends who are fisherwomen in the area.  I can barely understand what has to be the thickest accent I have heard since arriving 3 weeks ago. Gotta love it.
Peace,
Olivia

Team North America takes on the South Island

As mentioned, Jeannette and I embarked on our adventure first stopping in Queenstown, the quintessential summer stop for tourists, adrenaline and partying! Due to my  lost wallet issue, I was on a strict budget that prevented me from capitalizing on one of my "Top 30 before I turn 30" goals: SKYDIVING! But alas, I have a few more months to make it happen here. After encountering some rowdy Irish folk in Queenstown, we headed off to Wanaka, a local lake resort town where allegedly some of the All Blacks (NZ rugby world champions) have recently purchased homes. It kind of has a SantaFe-esque vacation feel, but is still low key. We relaxed with ice cream, beach picnics and soaking in the sun next to the gorgeous lake with a mountain view and glacial water temperatures. We even took in a little paddle boating and Indian food. I think it was in Wanaka that I finally started to feel in full "holiday backpacker mode." We also worked on setting the pace and planning the remainder of our adventures. Fortunately, Jeannette had already taken care of the big planning items such as planes, trains and automobiles, but we then had to map out a route over more short whites of course.  With some reservations made and with a very lucky ride to make our bus, we decided to head directly to Mt. Cook, the highest point in New Zealand.  We were enthusiastic about this more isolated, serene setting. We checked into the visitor center for info. on renting gear and trail maps upon arrival.
We discovered we had that afternoon to complete the Mueller Trail we had picked out due to temperamental forecast for the next day. So we (foolishly) gathered ourselves and started out on a 5 hour hike that afternoon. About one hour in we realized that though short, the 1800 meter ascent was more than we bargained for. Jeannette and I are not novice hikers, but agreed that this was the most challenging thing that either of us had attempted since accomplishing Machu Picchu and Torres del Paine in South America. I cursed myself yet again for not having an ankle brace, but there was no turning back! Especially since our only booked accommodations for the evening were at the top of that point- at the Mueller Hut. So we trekked on, slowly, beyond rock scrambles and gale force winds to our destination. By the grace of God we managed to arrive about twenty minutes before sun down. Our sweaty, sun burnt, trembling legs now found themselves on snow in our path. Needless to say, our bodies ached as we climbed into our sleeping bag and were serenaded to sleep by 120kph wind noise in the hut we shared with 12 or so other trampers. We rose after the others and found ourselves to be the only humans on the trail the next morning as we descended- cursing every stair and unstable boulder. Survival!! We, of course, rewarded ourselves with pricey cafe food, coffee and chocolate at the end. We just missed the snow in Mt. Cook and Queenstown, unseasonable for this time of year. So I was fast asleep that night in my cozy YHA hostel by 7pm.  The next day, still sore and humbled by the trek, we boarded another InterCity bus to Christchurch. 
I wasn't sure what to expect from Christchurch, which was devastated by massive quakes in the last year. What used to be the largest city on the South Island is still in a state of healing and recovery. I could go on and on about the comparison of what seems to be highly productive NZ government rebuilding efforts vs. the efforts of say the US gov. disaster response circa 2005, but I will keep it light. J and I stayed at the Jailhouse Hostel, which is - you guessed it- an old historic jailhouse converted into a hostel. Clever buggers! We spent the first night people watching the locals at a pub over fish n' chips and a well earned beer or two. The following day I managed to track down my wallet finally. No thanks to the NZ courier post, it took over a week for me to recover it, but again keeping it light and not hateful. Anyway, we spent Saturday exploring the city, including the completely blocked off and abandoned CBD AKA the Red Zone. The buildings that are still standing are broken, tilting and abandoned.  However, a lift of morale and spending for the city has been created in the ever creative container mall. They have reopened shops and cafes from the area and built them in old train cargo containers. It is literally the world's first pop- up mall. Brilliant for the Re: Start Christchurch. I could go on an entire post about Christchurch rebuilding efforts, but you can also google it or click here http://www.flickr.com/photos/jjprojects/6336633624/ for images. My photos are posted on Facebook.  Additionally, there was a Buskers Festival going on that weekend so Jeannette and I sat  amidst the comedy on a nice summer's eve. The return of this world fest seemed to be a huge morale boost for the city as well. And wouldn't you know that the stars aligned for Jeannette and I as we found ourselves sitting right behind a group of local Christchurch girls about our age and some Chilenos- JACKPOT! Before we knew it we had finished our wine and were heading to The Brewery (local bar) with our new friends. We cracked some woodies (opened some Woodstock brand bourbon and coke in a can)-and carried on into the evening.  
The next morning came too soon. We had a lovely 7am ride to the train station to cross the Southern Alps going from the east coast to the west coast that day.  A very scenic ride indeed, that I slept through most of :). We finally arrived in Nelson that evening, tired, but eager to plan our escape into Abel Tasman National Park. 
More on that,  the Sevens Rugby Tournament and WWOOF'ing!

Looking Left

Greetings,
I hope to write in greater detail later, but for now I  wanted to update that I am in Nelson, NZ and headed into Abel Tasman National Park.  I will update on Wanaka, Mt. Cook and Christchurch soon! For now, off the radar and into the sea (via kayak!)

Peace,
O

Kiwi love

I am just popping in to say that I am in Queenstown and enjoying this beautiful mountain encompassed beach town. Jeannette and I have had a very full four days from Wellington to here. We visited Milford Sound via bus and boat and enjoyed some mince pies. Yesterdfay made for a 22 hour day after our travels, we joined some other hostelers out on the town last night. Today, we glady slept in and then decided to get from crip, fresh air by hiking up the Tiki Trail. Instead of spending $25 on the gondola ride we walked it instead, which reminded me of how much hiking I hope to do during my stint here. After enjoying the view of the Remarkables ( the mountain range) we enjoyed a short black (more coffee.) Tomorrow we are headed off to Wanka for more gorgeous scenery and then off to glacier climbing and by the end of the week, Christchurch. I will try to post pictures (on facebook) soon, but internet cost$ money. :)
In other news, I misplaced my wallet at the Wellington airport and it was recovered after 24 hours with EVERYTHING in tact! This astounds me, as I cannot imagine still having my credit cards and $200 cash  if this had happened in about a million other international airports around the world. First impressions: Kiwi people are amazing, kind, laid back and adventure lovers. So far so good!

The Layover

My long journey to New Zealand began with a little R&R near LA with my friend Rio and catching up with a few other friends in the area. I had a bit of a layover in Brisbane, Australia (~8 hours.) With this time and ~$50 I accomplished the following things for my day in Australia: tired of airports and planes, I took a bus to and from the city center. I began my day with my first short white (coffee in this part of the world.) It is very hot in Australia so I immediately went to the south bend area where there is a man made beach off of the Brisbane River. No bathing suit? No problem! I just went with what I had on (under my clothes.) Spontaneity embraced. After realizing I needed SPF do my laying out, I went for a walk about and found myself crossing the Goodwill Bridge to go to the free city Botanical Gardens. The new flora made for great experimenting with my camera. Then I completed the day with a delish. lamb gyro and inaugural travel ice cream at a beach side cafe! My general first impression of Australia was that it is hot and expensive. However, the city of Brisbane is beautiful, green and clean. They also claim fame for having the largest IMAX theater in the world and the first koala preservation. I also met a nice kiwi girl who had been studying abroad at UNC, proving that tarheels really are everywhere. All in all it was a great day and a great break. Lastly, Virgin Australia was an amazing airline, given the billion hour ride.
Next up.... arrival in Wellington and beyond.

Adios!

I successfully packed for three months in my large hiking back pack and this tiny day pack (above.)  If you know me, you know this is a miracle of minimalism! So off I go on another adventure of a life time.
LAX- Brisbane, Australia- Wellington, New Zealand tomorrow.  I can't believe it's FINALLY here.
Thanks to everyone for all the support and help getting me to this point (with all kinds of new gear too!)
Kia Ora- (HELLO) New Zealand! Ready or not, here I come!